Sunday, July 25, 2010

7/16/2010 Ciel Bleu Amsterdam Holland

there's only 1 2-star michelin restaurant in amsterdam, and i booked us into it for the 16th. ciel bleu is described as
a chic restaurant at the top of the okura hotel with a superb contemporary decor, and fascinating urban panorama. experience stylish service, delicious creative cuisine with exotic touches, a fine wine list and sunset views from the lounge.

the website says it's a 10 minute walk from the Amsterdam RAI train station which is 10 minutes if that via train from schipol.  it might be 10 minutes if you're a speed walker, but not if you're just taking a normal pace. it was closer to 20. as we skirted RAI (it looked like a new convention center/arena being built) i see this tall building towering over the 3-4 story structures and tell matt 'i bet that's it. the place is on the 23rd floor and that building's further than 10 minutes away'. sure enough, that was it.

most of the buildings in amsterdam are like all the others - shared walls, squished buildings 4 or 5 stories tall, but as you get further out of town's center buildings get taller, more modern, built in the 70s or later. hotel okura is definitely newer and really towers over everything nearby. when you walk through the lobby to the elevator one is struck by the clash of periods. there were a few people waiting for an elevator as we got there, but i noticed a sign on the far wall for ciel bleu and the lounge with an unlit up button. i headed over and pushed it. when the doors opened a minute later we went in and i expected to see 1 or 2 buttons only for the top couple of floors, but there was a button for every floor there. maybe it was the only lift to go all the way to the top but it wasn't an express. the others waiting started to get in but someone said what i was thinking and they hopped off so we had the lift to ourselves.

when the doors opened onto the 23rd floor we were greeted by a young man who was centered  in our view and who welcomed us to ciel bleu. he took my jacket and directed me to the ladies' while matt was led to the table.

as i was directed in the direction of our table, which wasn't hard to find as there were only about 12-15 tables and only 1 or 2 were occupied, there was a server waiting for me to help me with the chair; which i must say these were tied for comfort with kai. i was barely scooted up to the table when i noticed a little ottoman being brought out around me. as i sat down i switched hands my purse was in and the ottoman quickly shifted course and ended up on my right, just beside the chair, for my purse so i wouldn't have to place it on the floor or share a chair with it. classy.

 sit back, relax, and enjoy the 8 course tasting menu. we did.


our amuse-bouche
a blood orange, carrot and lychee soup

served slightly cool this was really good. starting 8+ courses with a "wow" really bodes well. i would love to make this at home. i'm not a huge carrot fan but i couldn't taste it. the lychee sweetened the slight acidity of the blood orange.

served before and with the amuse we had a glass of the roderer rose champagne











amuse #2
caprese tomato on a cookie with pesto and a lobster roll with a vanilla mayo

the tomato was really good but the lobster roll, wow. notice the little syringe -looking thing just to the left of the roll? that's the sauce. you poke it into the roll and squeeze. they say it's a dutch specialty. if this is dutch food i'm going to enjoy amsterdam!

notice the interesting plating: the food is placed on the opening of a clear plastic tray which is placed over a bowl with rocks in the bottom.


the breads. yes, those are crackers sticking up from a rock.
we were also served both salted and non-salted butters










amuse #3
languostine 'tentacles' with an ouzo marshmallow, mango and a little bit of gold leaf.

ok, not my favorite. the marshmallow reminded me of a gooey blob. and those of you who know me know i have a thing about heads/feet on my food. you would've been proud of me. i managed to pick it up and shove it into my mouth in almost 1 bite. it was pretty good but i must impress that it was only the tentacles. there was no head or body or any of the 'stuff' that's found inside of those parts.


Manzanilla Pasada, Delgado Zuleta, Spain, NV









course #1
oyster and passion fruit: poached royal cabanon oyster with horseradish cream, froth of passion fruit and powder of lavendar.

there's a bachelor's button flower and a bit of white sherry in the bottom of the bowl.
yes, we've already had 3 courses + bread, but this is the 1st course listed on the menu. and something we noticed at chez mathilde was the scallops had the siphon attached, and the oyster here does, too.

the flavor of the oyster was ok, but i still didn't care for the texture. i've now had oysters at a number of very high quality restaurants and i think i can honestly say i really don't care for them. if you serve one to me expect me to pass it on to matt. he likes them. but the rest of the dish was just fine.

i noticed up front that there was a limited number of silver on the table. forks were presented tines down. each course a gloved waiter brought new silver out
on a tray. in fact everything was served by gloved
hands. "why?" you may ask; to eliminate any

 fingerprints on the plates/glasses and spoiling the presentation. this is the 1st restaurant we've dined in that has done this. i say keep it up! it's a very simple and very elegant touch.

the pics are 2 views of amsterdam we had from our table. a little hard to see in the pics but there are construction cranes everywhere. if a building wasn't under scaffolding for renovation or cleaning it appeared it was under scaffolding for structural support.


Bianco Rovere, Merlot, Guido Brivio, Tessin, Switzerland, 2008











course #2
bass & caviar: bass tatar style with perle caviar and ice cream of burre blanc, crunch of rye bread and prawn crackers.

the crispy thing is made from algae. overall this was pretty good. it surprised me. i guess the taste for beef tartar or carne crudo is starting to expand my taste buds?





Cuvee Toques et Clochers, Chardonnay, Sieur d'Arques, Limeux, France, 2008










an interlude: pistachio and scallop cannelloni, served on the rocks.

and when they told us what it is they said st jacques. how they get scallop from that i'll never figure out.

boy were these tasty! i could've eaten an entire plate of these, just like the lobster rolls. but then i wouldn't have had the space for some of these other fantastic dishes. the dough was perfectly crispy, just like a spring roll. i'm not sure if they purchase these or make them, but either way... and the filling was creamy and mild. i'm amazed at them in general and want to know how many get broken in the process of dinner before they have enough to serve!


course #3
sccallop and truffle: grilled scallop with summer truffle and veal cheek, cream of celeriac and white chocolate

i think it's a nasturtium leaf. the chocolate was blended into the celeriac cream if you're looking for it. the veal cheek was hidden in the photo.








at this point in the meal we were brought new napkins. which gives me the opportunity to add a few other service notes. every time i returned from the ladies there was someone who was at my chair to hold and help me back to the table. add to that each time i returned a new and folded napkin at my plate. the only other place that we've been to supply a new napkin every time someone left the table is the herbfarm. but what i noticed is that the new napkins were delivered to the table with silver tongs.


Belondrade Y Lurton, Verdejo, Rueda, Spain, 2008










course #4
Sole & French Beans: grilled sole with jus of french beans and sweet-and-sour of pears

the sole had spanish ham wrapped inside, and the thing on the left was a creamy pea squishy thing. not sure what it's called, but it's covered in edible copper. it was pretty squishy. a very odd texture on the tongue if you've never tried it. this dish is served chilled, not hot.

ok, this was probably my least favorite dish. it looks great, and presentation was fantastic, but for me i just didn't care for any of it. matt said it was good and had the comment "it smells like a phish concert". i've never been so i can't comment on that. i did have a couple bites of it before we switched plates.

one of the servers saw us juggling the plates and ran over to help. when he realized we were swapping plates he of course became concerned. we didn't mention the fact that i didn't care so much for this dish but did let him know that if i ate everything i wouldn't be able to eat everything! so i guess the fact that i have a limited belly helped me a little bit. but if anyone from ciel bleu is reading this now i guess the cat's out of the bag. however considering how much we ate that night i think it's pretty good that this was really the only dish i really didn't like.


"La Grola" Allegrini, IGT Veronese Italy 2006










course #5
Pigeon & Foie gras: lightly smoked anjou pigeon breast with melted foie gras, gnocchi's raz el hanout and gravy morels.

they smoked the bird 1st, then roasted it in the oven on a real low temp.

you could really taste the smoke in the gnocchi.

this was really good. i mean *really* good.

we were poured this tawny port but then the som realized we were supposed to get a different wine with the next course.

Aulese, Riesling, Frey, Essinger Rossberg, Pfalz, Germany, 2007 is the wine for our next course, but of course they didn't take the port away from us.





that's a way cool cheese wheel holder. it allowed our server to shave the thinnest slices of cheese off for our plates.

.




course # 6
Rhubarb and Celery: structures of preserved rhubarb and celery with freshly shaved Old Nobility cheese from  Marienwaerdt

we actually had an Oude Adel. it was one of the best cheeses i've had. we must find a way to get some here.







nearing sunset, looking westward













course #7

Peche Melbe: peach melba "prepared in our own way"

it came on the slate tile in a box (above left) and then we each got a test tube (above right) with raspberry, almond and yogurt crunchies.

the pic isn't too good but it's the best i could get. lots of white. there's also chantilly on top. it was pretty darn good.



Symphonie de Novembre, Domaine Cauhape, Jurancon, France, 2006










course #8
Aloe vera & Vervain: marinated seasonal fruits with aloe vera cream and kalamansi sorbet, served with souffle of vervain and vanilla

aloe vera cream didn't have much taste to me.

and it's vervain, or lemon verbena foam






wow. i think this was the best souffle i've ever had. it was the perfect souffle. it just dissolved on the tongue.

notice the absence of any sauce poured into it. bravo!

















mignardise

there are 17 choices on this cart that was rolled over to us. coffee or tea of course was provided.

by this time i had no room in my belly for anything more, but i did select 1 of these - how could i not?

matt allowed our server to put together a nice little selection. he ended up with 2 plates! LOL



my choice - blood orange marshmallows. they were pretty impressive













matt's selections: raspberry macaroon with a hint of mint, blueberry marshmallow, peanut bar, dark chocolate lollipop, white chocolate and tea bar, marengue, vanilla madelline, passion fruit bit, pomegranate jelly.

while we were enjoy these last morsels the table next to us had some boxes brought over. they looked like humidors and we thought they were being offered cigars. it wouldn't surprise us if it had been. as it turns out that was the house specialty dessert. but not having ordered it or having a menu i can't tell you what it really was. but it looked great on presentation!

we had booked in at 7pm. matt was thinking we'd not get to see the sunset which was almost 10pm. i think i mentioned above there were 12-15 tables in the place (unless there were more around the corner out of sight but still less than 30 tables in the place). there was a table for 1 behind us. the table of 4 which looked like a biz dinner, and a couple other tables i know for sure were filled. mostly they were empty. but you wouldn't really know it because of the wonderful spacing of furniture. they could easily triple the tabletops in that place if they wanted to. i hope they don't. i think the space they have around each table allows the diners to feel like they are the only table in the place. something else i noted, the party of 4 was seated at a normal 6-top. we were seated at a normal 4-top. the seating arrangements at all tables also took advantage to space. we were never crowded with plates or glasses.

by the night's end most of the servers knew i write this blog and asked for the address. i hope they find it. they were all very nice. in fact near the start of the meal when i was scribbling stuff down 1 guy offered to write down what it was we had, including the wines. "as long as it's no trouble". but i wanted to scribble stuff anyway, as i've learned i like to have a few notes and sometimes they leave something off the menu that makes it onto the plates. towards the end our main server asked if i'd like the chef to autograph the menu he printed up for us. sure, why not? i thought that was a nice offer. when i opened it later i saw chef had written a little note.
"food is art. culinary greetings. team ciel bleu"
i must say ciel bleu won the presentation award. and the service award. i'll leave you to draw your own conclusion to the rest. :-P   would i go back? most definitely. will i go back? i sure hope so.

a little note if you plan on dining here. taxis in amsterdam are so not worth the money (7+ on the meter right off the bat) it's a 20 minute walk to RAI station, then for us was 10 minutes to schipol by train, once we were on the train. then a 10 minute shuttle ride to the hotel, once we were on the shuttle which picked up every 30 minutes. so a minimum of an hour. as it turned out we would miss the last hotel shuttle and need a cab anyway so we decided to pay for the cab from the restaurant - which dropped us off at the hotel dorint at schipol east in 20 minutes for about 40 euro. we were in our room in the amount of time or less than it would've taken us to get on the train at RAI.

Saturday, July 24, 2010

7/7/2010 Chez Mathilde-Paris XVII Paris France



wow. what a little gem. i had taken along all our michelin guide hoping we'd get into a few of the bib gourmand places and we did make it to one on this night.

chez mathilde was also getting no answer via telephone so at 6 with hungry bellies we set out towards chez mathilde to see if it was open or closed for holiday or what, and we decided we'd find somewhere to eat nearby if they weren't open.

we found the place pretty easily and the gal was just setting out the table. turns out they opened at 7 so there wasn't anyone there until a little after 6 to answer the phone. we asked if we could get a table and she said yes, service started at 7, so while we're hungry we decided to walk down a couple blocks to this great neighborhood park and watch people/children until 7.  in some ways it reminded me of comm ave in boston, but this was more neighborhoodly. to find out more about this park you'll have to check into my travel blog for this date.

there was 1 table for 2 outside on the sidewalk - limited due to some road work being done, but inside there was only 6 or 7 tables. i have no idea how many people were in the kitchen but there was only 1 gal on the main floor. she bused, served, did the drinks, sommeliered, cashiered, and answered the phones.

the menu for the day was handwritten on chalkboards. of course we ordered a bottle of wine to go with.


an amuse-bouche:
it was a poppy & sesame seed butter cookie kind of thing













me: gaspacho de poivron piquillos

other than a chiled soup and i guessed piquillos was a type of pepper i had no idea. i just thought it sounded like a good thing to have and boy was it! red pepper with a basil leaf.









matt: terrine forestiere

this was a country style pate/terrine with greens. it was pretty good, but i'm glad i had the soup











me: saute de porck au curry, pates coquillage

pork brochettes in curry sauce with pasta shells (that's the coquillage). this was great. it took a few bites for the curry to kick in but wow.









matt: st jacques roties, p. puree

st jacques. we would never have figured this out if our server was as nice as she is. there was a lot on the menu we just simply did not recognize and with no context other than knowing it was an edible item, we had a real hard time figuring out what things were. she went and pulled out her dictionary and helped translate a lot of words, actually. st jacques = scallops!

so scallops with potato puree. yummy!


me: tarte aux cerises

i knew this was a cherry tart but that's all i would've been able to tell you. oh my. it was like a pudding quiche with cherries.










matt: sable breton, framboises et chantilly

raspberries, whip cream and cake (kind of thing)

matt says it was very good.









mingardise - i think these were the little raspberry madelines.

while we were eating another couple came in and were seated at a nearby table. we struck up a conversation with them somehow. anyway they're served a dessert and matt and i are both like "wow that looks good".  now mind you there were a couple 'wow' moments in this meal. the soup, the scallops, the cherry tart - and everything else earned at least a 'yummy!', but when i returned from the ladies matt tells me to sit down, we can't leave yet.


next thing i know we're being served the house specialty - moelleux au chocolat, glace vanille

molten chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream and a gooseberry













i have absolutely nothing but good things to say about this place. it was superb. perhaps it was such a 'wow' because we weren't expecting such a great meal, just a really good value and a good meal. perhaps the small place overwhelmed us with its charm. but the fact that the gal who was working that night went so out of her way to help us figure out what was on the menu and had limited english - but it was more english than i had french - that did it. i'd like to keep this place my little secret, but i can't. it's too good for that. it's a bit out of the way - one has to walk about 6 blks off the port maillot Mo stop, but if you can i suggest you get out there.

Friday, July 23, 2010

7/5/2010 La Dauphine & Le Petit Marius Paris France

we ate lunch in a little place near the national archives.


in comparison to the 3 courses for 14 last night this one had a 2 course menu for 15.80. not quite as good a deal. but we're 1 block south of the seine, 2 blks from the national archives and not far from the st. germain neighborhood.


as it was i thought we were pretty clever. matt got the starter+dish and i got the dish+dessert. we then shared the starter and dessert!


ham serrano platter















roasted free-range chicken with mashed potatoes.

this was actually pretty good. 1 had a back/leg and matt had the wing/breast. we then switched because i like the lighter meat and he prefers the darker meat.








2 scoops of chocolate ice cream.

this was really good, rich dark chocolate. there were chunks in it, too.












dinner was after we went to the eiffel tower at a place not terribly far away.

dinner wasn't quite as good. it was heavy on the seafood, which usually is ok, but i wasn't in a fishy mood.

there was a "deep frying 'merlin' with lemon and tartar sauce" on the menu and i thought about that, but something told me to not get it. while we were waiting for our 1st plates the table next to us received their order and someone had gotten it. i'm glad i didn't get it.

well, the waiter came out and apologized but were out of crab. damn. now what am i going to do? to be honest i didn't want the merlin, forget that it came with 2 eyes and all it's teeth smiling widely back at me. i guess i could put a napkin over it's head while i eat? matt, trying to be helpful, asks the waiter if they could chop off the head before serving me the fish. the waiter doesn't understand so matt resorts to charades and does the drawing the finger across the neck to pantomime beheading routine. the waiter understands and goes off. i was so embarrassed. now i can see the humor in it, but at the time i was tired and *very* cold. it didn't help that we were seated on the outside deck and the wind had started to pick up.


matt ordered the 'steamed minut gublin bay prawns'

not exactly a prawn but more a langoustine. with all their goopy inside goodness. i thought of ordering those but i'm glad i didn't. i've never been able to stomach the idea of 'sucking head' on crawdads and these little bugs were awful similar. i was proud of him, he did a good job but he left a lot of those inner parts, too.




"called carrots"

yup, that's what the menu called them













"deep frying "merlin" with lemon and tartar sauce"

i can't say it was a tartar sauce like i've ever had. it was pretty bad.

the fish was ok. lots of bones. they did remove the head but there was still lots of 'innerds' at the neck and near the tail.

i didn't eat much.


this was a good choice. my dessert.
it was a pretty soft brie. softer than camembert and pretty fantastic. especially with the balsamic and a little bit of the bitter greens.











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